Biasi Prisma sequence of operation

Boiler at rest

1. Power on (mains green LED on facia illuminated).
2. Selector switch in summer/winter position.

DHW demand

1. Open a hot water draw-off to create a demand (minimum flow rate of 2.5 l/min).
2. The DHW flow switch microswitch (black and white wires) changes from open circuit to closed circuit. The diverter valve’s internal hydraulics move from ‘at rest’ CH position to DHW position.
   Note: If the DHW microswitch does not change to closed circuit, the sequence will not continue.
3. The printed circuit board (PCB) sends 230V AC to the pump, which runs.
   Note: If the pump does not run the sequence will not continue.
4. The primary flow switch microswitch changes from open circuit to closed circuit (brown and blue wires).
   Note: If the primary flow switch does not change to closed circuit, the sequence will not continue but the pump will continue to run.
5. The PCB checks both the DHW sensor (red and black wires) and the CH sensor (blue and black wires) are in range (12k Ohms at cold, 2k Ohms at 80°C).
   Note: If either sensor is out of range the sequence will not continue but the pump will continue to run.
6. 230V AC from the main PCB through the safety thermostat to the ignition PCB.
   Note: If the manual reset overheat thermostat has tripped, the sequence will not continue but the pump will run.
7. The ignition PCB checks the air-pressure switch is in the ‘at rest’ position (continuity across common and normally closed terminals, black to brownwires).
   Note: If there is no continuity across these terminals the fan will not start and the sequence will not continue.
8. The PCB sends 230V AC to the fan and air-pressure switch.
9. The fan runs, and the air-pressure switch operates (continuity across common and normally open terminals, black to blue wires).
   Note: If the fan does not run, or the air-pressure switch does not operate, the boiler will go to lockout with the red LED illuminated.
10. Sparking commences at the spark electrode.
11. The ignition PCB sends 230V AC to the gas valve and the boiler lights at an ignition pressure of 4 mbar.
12. Flame rectifies and sparking stops, the burner then ramps up to maximum gas pressure.
    Note: If the burner does not light or flame rectification does not take place within 10 seconds of spark commencing, the appliance will lockout with the red lockout LED illuminated.
13. The burner pressure modulates under the control of the DHW thermistor and DHW potentiometer on the PCB to maintain the set water temperature at the tap. If the primary water temperature reaches 75°C the burner will extinguish, the fan will stop until the primary water temperature sensed by the CH sensor (primary sensor) drops below 75°C. The ignition sequence wil then restart.
    Note: The Modureg voltage will be 15V DC on maximum gas pressure and 9V DC on minimum gas pressure.
14. DHW demand ends, the DHW flow switch goes open circuit, the burner extinguishes, the fan and pump stop.

Central heating demand

1. All external controls calling for heat.
2. 230V AC to the pump, which runs.
   Note: If the pump does not run the sequence will not continue.
3. Primary flow switch (black and blue wires) changes from open circuit to closed circuit, diverter valve remains in ‘at rest’ central heating position.
   Note: If the flow switch does not operate, the sequence will not continue but the pump will continue to run.
4. The PCB checks the CH sensor (black and blue wires) is in range (12k Ohms at cold, 2k Ohms at 80°C).
   Note: If the CH sensor is out of range, the sequence will not continue but the pump will continue to run.
5. 230V AC from the main PCB through the safety thermostat to the ignition PCB.
   Note: If the manual reset overheat thermostat has tripped, the sequence will not continue but the pump will run.
6. The ignition PCB checks that the air-pressure switch is in the ‘at rest’ position (continuity across common and normally closed terminals, black to brown wires).
   Note: If there is no continuity across these terminals the fan will not start and the sequence will not continue.
7. The PCB sends 230V AC to the fan, which runs.
8. The air-pressure switch operates (continuity across common and normally open terminals, black to blue wires).
   Note: If the fan does not run, or the air-pressure switch does not operate, the boiler will go to lockout with the red LED illuminated.
9. Sparking commences at the spark electrode.
10. The ignition PCB sends 230V AC to the gas valve and the boiler lights at ignition pressure 4 mbar.
11. Flame rectifies and sparking stops; the burner then ramps up to the range-rated set pressure.
    Note: If the burner does not light or flame rectification does not take place within 10 seconds of spark commencing, the appliance will lockout with the red lockout LED illuminated.
12. The burner modulates under the control of the CH thermistor, and the user control CH potentiometer on the PCB to maintain primary water temperature. When the set temperature is reached the burner will extinguish, and the fan will stop for a three-minute anti-cycle delay period.
    Note: The anti-cycle delay is active only when dip switch 4 is set to the ‘on’position.
13. CH demand ends, the burner extinguishes, and the fan and the pump stop.

Biasi Prisma data

Appliance components data
Model	Biasi Prisma
Fan
Single or variable speed	Single
Voltages	230V AC
Coil resistance	47 Ohms
Pump (Internal)
Models used	Salmson MYE30, Myson CP53
High head alternative	Salmson MYE50, Myson CP63
Pump head replaceable as separate component	Yes
Diversion media (combi)
Mechanical or electrical	Mechanical
Service kit available	Yes
Diverter rests in which position	Central heating
Air-pressure sensor/switch
APS/sensor fitted	APS
Operational type (sensor/mechanical, etc.)	Mechanical
Operational voltage	230V AC
Safety Devices
Manual re-settable overheat	Yes
Temperature of overheat operation	105°C
Manual re-settable ignition lockout device	Yes
Number of ignition sequence before lockout	One
Low water pressure switch or sensor fitted	No
Water flow switch fitted	Yes
Type	Diaphragm
Gas valve
Model used	Honeywell Vk4105
Operational voltage (main valve)	230V AC
Main gas-valve resistance readings	1260 Ohms/3000 Ohms
Modulating valve fitted	Yes
Coil resistance	125 Ohms
Modulator voltage readings:
Maximum gas	15V DC
Minimum gas	Less than 9V DC
Gas pressures
Burner gas pressures, maximum and minimum:
24S	28S
Max. nat. gas = 10.5 mbar	Max. nat. gas = 11 mbar
Max. LPG gas = 35 mbar	Max. LPG gas = 35 mbar
Min. nat. gas = 1.3 mbar	Min. nat. gas = 1 mbar
Min. LPG gas = 7 mbar	Min. LPG gas = 5.5 mbar
Ignition start-up pressure;
Nat. gas	4 mbar
LPG	13 mbar
Temprature
Type and number of temperature regulating thermostats (negative temperature co-efficient (NTC), positive temperature co-efficient (PTC), open/closed thermostat, etc.):
1. Central heating NTC
2. Hot water NTC
Is one a primary sensor?	Yes – Central Heating NTC
Wet or dry pockets?	Both wet pockets
1. Temperature/resistance range reading	12k Ohms @ 20°C
	2k Ohms @ 80°C
Printed circuit board
Number of PCBs on appliance	Two
Identify (ignition main, etc.)	Ignition/module
Main – Control PCB
Jumper/links fitted	Yes – Pump links and dip switches
Function/setting of above:

Dip switches
Dip switch	‘On’ position	‘Off position
Number 1	Has no function	Has no function
Number 2	Gas type = nat. gas	Gas type = LPG
Number 3	Set to on position after ignition pressure adjustment	Allows adjustment of ignition pressure by ACC potentiometer
Number 4	No anti-cycle delay in heating demand	3-minute anti-cycle display in heating demand

Pump links
Pump link	Pump operation
Link P1	The pump is controlled by central heating thermostat
Link P2	The pump is controlled by the room thermostat
Link P3	The pump will run constantly

Note: The pump links are on early model PCBs only: on later model PCBs the pump is fixed as in pump link 2
Number of PCB internal fuses	One fuse on main PCB
Size	1.6 amp
Engineer adjustable potentiometers available	Yes
Gas valve Potentiometer identification and function	ACC potentiometer used with dip switch3 to adjust ignition pressure RISC potentiometer used to range rate central heating
Operational voltage to external demand switching	Volt free
Electrode spark gap	4mm
Rectification spark gap	6mm
Primary water circuit filter fitted	No
Domestic water flow regulator(combi) fitted	Yes
Litres/min 2 sizes	Blue= 10 l/min,
	Red = 12 l/min
Location	Cold mains inlet
Any special tools required to service/repair the appliance	No

Hidden dangers of asbestos

Watch out for hidden asbestos. It can be found in many places, particularly in older installations and appliances.

‘Soft’ asbestos material was often used in appliances to create gaskets and washers, rope seals and paper linings. Although no 
asbestos components have been used in boilers manufactured for nearly 20 years, there are still plenty of asbestos components on older models, such as the Potterton Netaheat. So, take extreme care when removing covers to examine seals and gaskets, as these may contain asbestos. Look out for asbestos around burner units and flue hoods as well.

Asbestos components need not be replaced with asbestos-free components, providing they are in good condition and not giving rise to dust. However, asbestos materials should not be cut, drilled or screwed through, nor should they be sanded, filed or have power tools used on them.

What is asbestos?

There are three types of asbestos normally encountered in the UK:

• chrysotile (white)
• amosite (brown)
• crocidolite (blue).

They are usually referred to by their common names (shown in brackets), although they cannot be identified by their colour. Laboratory analysis is needed for positive identification.

Asbestos comes in many forms. As well as asbestos insulation board, pipework and appliances may be lagged with asbestos coating applied by a trowel. Some older warm-air heaters use insulation consisting of heat-resistant corrugated paper impregnated with white asbestos.

How does asbestos get into the body?

Asbestos fibres enter the body through breathing, via the nose and mouth. They cannot enter the body through the skin. Any fibres entering via food or drink will pass through. Disease is caused by tiny fibres of asbestos passing into the lungs where they can stay for years. Small but repeated exposure on different jobs over time can lead to the development of an asbestos-related disease, which can take anything from 15 to 60 years to develop.

This is why it is crucial to prevent exposure on every single job.

Suspect asbestos

Whenever you come across an older appliance or installation – assess the risk. If you believe there may be asbestos bearing components “STOP WORK”. Re-assess the job. If you are unsure whether or not the suspect material is asbestos, then it must be sampled by a trained asbestos sampler.

Disturbed asbestos

If suspect asbestos materials are disturbed accidentally STOP WORK IMMEDIATELY. Follow your company’s emergency task procedures or follow guidance provided in the HSE publication ‘Asbestos Essentials Manual’, which will include:

• isolating the area by closing doors and windows
• instructing the customer not to enter the area
• exiting the work area by the shortest possible means (direct to outside if possible)
• putting on a dust mask
• removing potentially contaminated personal protective equipment (PPE)
• requesting assistance.

Prepare the work area

Follow any special instructions in your company procedures. Check whether sampling is required for the work activity, which should not take one person longer than one hour.

• Inform the customer of the activity.
• Ensure no one – particularly children – enter the area while working.
• Carry out the task with a minimum number of people present.
• Put on all PPE: mask, disposable overalls with hood, overshoes and gloves.
• Ensure that doors and windows are closed in the work area.
• Use polythene sheeting to protect the floor, taped down to prevent slipping.
• Where working at height, appropriate control measures must be in place.

Ensure you have the necessary asbestos waste bags, water bottle and spray, and tack cloths, etc.

Exposing asbestos seals and gaskets

The location and position of asbestos components varies from boiler to boiler, but the recommended methods of removing cover plates and handling asbestos materials are the same. This example describes the process for the Potterton Netaheat.

Safe isolation and live testing

Before attempting work, any appliance/installation to be worked on must be SAFELY isolated from the electrical supply using the correct procedures. Exposed electrical connections must be verified as electrically ‘dead’. Take measures to prevent inadvertent re-connection of the electricity supply during work.

Do NOT undertake any activity that requires access to electrical components in a LIVE state – other than those defined as testing. (‘Live working’ is any activity that requires equipment being electrically energised with exposed electrical parts, connections or conductors.)

Only undertake live testing when there is no practical alternative, i.e. where equipment has to be electrically energised to enable functional observations and tests to be performed. Carry out an appropriate risk assessment for the activity and adopt safe systems of work.

Be aware that in some cases – such as the Potterton Netaheat -the printed circuit board (PCB) operates at 240V. It is NOT stepped down!

If you are not sure that you can work safely, stop and seek advice.

Finally you may begin to dismantle the appliances and;

1. Carefully dismantle the component to the point of exposing the asbestos.
2. Place polythene sheeting over vulnerable electric equipment to protect it from the possible entry of water when wetting down. Although the boiler will have been isolated from the electricity supply, water settling on components in the control box might cause shorting when power is restored.
3. Before removing the cover, spray the entire edge of the seal.
4. Loosen the screws of the combustion chamber cover to access its asbestos seals and insulation liner. Take care when opening asbestos-sealed joints to avoid them bursting apart and scattering asbestos dust into the atmosphere.
5. Use the spray bottle to carefully wet the gasket.
6. Partially open the cover plate to allow access to further dampen the seal as it becomes exposed.
7. Carefully undo the bottom screws so as to catch any loose debris which might fall out from the lower edge as the cover is removed.
8. The combustion chamber cover, complete with the seals and insulation pad, can be placed in a polythene bag ready to be taken outside. Use a scraper carefully to prise off to the debris into an asbestos disposal bag. If it is not possible to do this outside, seals and linings should be scraped off carefully within the bag, which should then be sealed and disposed of as asbestos-contaminated waste in accordance with your company procedures.
9. Ensure all residue is removed from the appliance gasket surface.
10. With the cover plate removed, examine the insulation panels in the combustion chamber for physical deteriorationsuch as cracking due to heat stress, water leaks, etc. If they are in a sound condition there is no need to change them. If any panel needs replacing, spray it with water before removal, following the procedure outlined above.

Flue hood

To catch any asbestos debris dropping from the flue hood, place a protective sheet of polythene over the burner.

The flue cover is the final component to be removed to gain access to the heat exchanger. Again, spray the exposed edges of the seal before removing the flue cover and carefully lifting it from the boiler housing. If the seal needs to be replaced, the flue cover, complete with seals, is also placed in an asbestos waste bag before taking it outdoors. Once outside, the rope seals, insulation panels and asbestos residue can be scraped off and the surfaces cleaned with a damp cloth. Put the waste items into an asbestos waste bag.

All the removed seals, lining and gaskets must be substituted with asbestos-free replacements as specified by the manufacturer.

Cleaning

Carefully clean up all debris and, if necessary, the floor area with tack cloths.

Do not use a brush or a vacuum cleaner (see Note below) to remove any debris if you to believe they may contain asbestos 
fibres. Carefully clean any tools used with tack cloths.

Place all debris, plus contaminated and potentially contaminated PPE, in marked asbestos waste bags. Then wash your hands and take a final check around the work area.

Note: Domestic type vacuum cleaners must not be used. However, a type H vacuum cleaner may be used strictly in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Appliance casing and asoestos paper

Some appliance manufacturers historically used foil-backed corrugated paper to protect decorative parts (such as appliance casings) from heat damage. In some older appliances this paper has been found to contain asbestos.

The insulation material is very delicate and care is needed not to damage or tear it. There is no danger of exposure to asbestos, provided that the insulation is not damaged and is in good condition. If you discover damaged asbestos paper it is recommended that you do not try to remove it because it is likely to be secured by glue or staples. Disturbing this insulation is likely to cause it to break down and release asbestos fibres.

A number of appliances contain this type of insulation. Older Baxi Bermuda-type fire/back-boiler appliances, for example, are very common. Some older Baxi fire fronts, manufactured before 1981, have corrugated asbestos paper enclosed in foil covering utilised as heat insulation fitted on the inside of their cases. The extent depends on the model.

Damaged paper insulation

When finding that the edges of paper are loose or there is superficial surface damage), take the following action.

• Use a respirator, gloves and disposable oversuit.
• Place the appliance case into an asbestos bag, if possible, before carrying it outside into fresh air.
• Inform the customer and ascertain the relevant history, e.g. has the case been removed for redecoration?
• Carefully seal damaged edges using aluminium foil tape.
• Once applied, do not peel the tape away from paper insulation.
• Look for areas where fingers, etc., may have damaged the corrugated surface of the material and seal these if necessary.
• Clean up using tack cloths and double-bag, along with any PPE, and treat as asbestos waste.

Significant damage to appliance or insulation

Where the asbestos paper is torn, scorched by heat, or beginning to break down, take the following actions.

• Use a respirator, gloves and disposable oversuit.
• Avoid making repairs, as disturbance may release asbestos fibres.
• Clean up any loose material using tack cloths and double-bag, along with any PPE, and treat as asbestos waste.
• Replace the casing and inform the customer.
• Arrange for a sample of the material to be taken by a trained sampler.

Air-pressure switches

In this article on component testing, we look at the air-pressure switch, how it operates and how it functions as a safety device.

An air-pressure switch (APS) is a safety device. Its function is to prove the flue is clear and the fan is running at the correct speed. The correct volume of air needed for complete combustion may then be drawn into the appliance and the products of combustion expelled from the flue terminal safely.

Are all APSs the same?

The most common types of APS use a diaphragm/electrical switch, and this is the type covered in this article. Alternative types of airflow-proving devices are air-flow sensors and air-pressure sensors.

The term ‘air-pressure switch’ is the common name used by both manufacturers and operatives to describe a diaphragm/electrical switch. Some manufacturers have alternative names, such as ‘fume sensor’ (Ariston) and ‘pressure differential switch’ (Vokera).

Note: The name may change, but the operation remains the same – it’s just a switch!

How it works

A modern APS has two functions: to move to an ‘at rest/no air flow’ position or to an ‘operated/proved air’ position. When the fan operates at its nominal high speed, air movement creates a difference in pressure on the top and bottom of the diaphragm; this, in turn, pushes the diaphragm and an attached pin and lever. When the diaphragm has fully reached its proved air-flow position the pin and lever operate a microswitch. When the fan has stopped, a force (usually a spring or gravity) returns the diaphragm to its ‘at rest/no air flow’ position.

Note: If the APS rests in the ‘at rest/no air’ position and moves to the ‘operated/ proved air’position when the fan runs, there is no fault with the APS.

How does the fan operation create the difference in pressure?

To transfer the movement of air generated by the fan into the switch, most manufacturers use silicon rubber tubes. These tubes usually connect the APS with the fan and/or combustion chamber. To create a pressure differential, the tubes will be connected to, or have fitted inside them, a venturi. A venturi is a restriction that increases the air pressure when air is forced through it.

How can the microswitch be tested for correct operation?

Two-wire switch

An APS connected by two wires will rest with the microswitch in the ‘open/no air-flow’ position. When the boiler fan runs at its nominal high speed, the switch operates and changes the microswitch to the ‘closed/proved air flow’ position.

To test the two-wire switch:

• Turn the power off to the boiler and confirm safe isolation.
• Disconnect both wires from the switch and place in a safe position. Ensure the wires are not touching any other component or earth (this simulates the switch in a ‘no air flow’ position). The use of an insulating mat is recommended.
• Carry out a ‘no air flow’ resistance check on the switch. This requires a multimeter set to the Ohms scale. Expect open circuit across the two terminals (‘open circuit’ indicates the APS is in the correct rest position).
• Turn the power back on and create a demand for heat.
• With the fan running at high speed, carry out a continuity check across the two terminals of the APS.
  Note: Some appliances will give you only a short period of time to prove air flow – ensure the fan is at high speed when carrying out this check.
• You should expect a closed circuit reading, i.e. approximately 1 Ohm resistance. This means the switch has operated and has moved to the ‘proved air flow’ position.
  Note: An open circuit reading will need further investigation, but it does not prove that the APS itself is faulty.
• Turn off the power, confirm safe isolation, and replace the wires onto the correct terminals.

Three-wire switch

An APS connected by three wires will rest with the microswitch giving continuity between the common (C) and normally closed (NC) (‘no air flow’ position).

When the boiler fan runs at its nominal high speed, the microswitch operates and should provide a reading of continuity between the common (C) and normally open (NO) terminals (‘proved air’ position).

To test the three-wire switch:

To safely confirm if the switch is operating correctly the following method may be used:

• Turn off the power to the appliance and confirm safe isolation.
• Note the position (and colours) of the wires and the terminals to which they are connected, i.e. common (C), normally closed (NC), and normally open (NO).
• Disconnect all three wires from the APS terminals and safely join the common (C) and normally closed (NC) wires together. Place all wires in a safe position ensuring the wires are not touching any other component or earth (this simulates the switch in the ‘no air flow’ position). The use of an insulating mat is recommended.
• Carry out a ‘no air flow’ resistance check across the common (C) and normally closed (NC) terminals of the switch. (A reading of continuity, i.e. less than 1 Ohm, proves the switch is in the ‘no air flow’ position.)
• Restore power to the appliance and create a demand for heat.
• With the common (C) and normally closed (NC) wires joined simulating the switch in the ‘no air’ position, the fan should run at its nominal high speed. With the fan running at high speed, carry out a continuity test across the common (C) and
  normally open (NO) terminals (some appliances will give only a short period of time to prove air flow – ensure the fan is at high speed when carrying out this check). A closed circuit reading means the switch has operated and moved to the ‘proved air flow’ position.
• Turn off the power, confirm safe isolation, and replace the wires onto the correct terminals.
  Note: An open circuit reading will need further investigation, but it does not prove the APS is faulty.

The APS fails to operate. Is it faulty?

First, prove that the correct air-pressure differential is acting on the APS. It may be that a restriction or blockage in the appliance prevents the APS from operating. Some checks to consider are:

• blocked or obstructed venturi
• incorrectly fitted venturi
• loose or cracked silicone rubber tubes
• poorly installed or corroded flue seals/ducts
• blocked/restricted heat exchanger causing poor airflow
• slow-running fan
• partially choked fan blades
• incorrectly fitted or positioned air guides or baffles
• incorrect flue lengths
• incorrect or no restrictor rings in flue assembly.

When all of the above factors are deemed satisfactory, the problem may be a split or stretched diaphragm in the APS itself, which would then need to be replaced.

How does the APS fit into the sequence of operation?

The APS has only two functions. When the appliance has no demand the APS must move to the rest position (no air flow). When the fan is running at its nominal high speed the APS must move to its operated position (proved air flow).

No movement to the rest position (no air)

What happens if the APS has not moved to the rest position (no air) when a demand is placed on the boiler?

Two-wire switch

The PCB (printed circuit board) on most modern appliances will send a signal or a voltage to the APS when a demand is placed on the boiler. If the signal/voltage is returned to the PCB from a two-wire switch, the PCB will recognise the switch is not in the open circuit position (‘no air flow’ position).

Three-wire switch

With a three-wire switch, the signal or voltage sent from the PCB must be returned via the correct terminal or the PCB will recognise the APS is not in the ‘no air flow’ position.
Note: If the APS is not in its rest position before a demand for heat, most makes of boiler will not allow the fan to start.

No movement to ‘proved air’

What happens if the APS does not move to the ‘proved air’ position?

When the APS operates and moves to the ‘proved air flow’ position, this is the signal to the PCB that it is safe to start the ignition sequence.

If the APS does not move to the ‘proved air flow’ position, the ignition sequence will not commence. (This may result in lockout situations, or, alternatively, the fan may run at high speed for long periods.)

Some points to note:

• APSs only need 1 or 2 mbars of air pressure to move the diaphragm: do not blow into the switch because damage to the diaphragm may occur.
• Always ensure the silicon rubber tube connecting the APS and the fan venturi is as short as possible.
• NEVER attempt to adjust an APS – it is a non-adjustable safety device!
• A small number of boilers do not check the ‘no air flow’ position on two-wire switches. They will begin an ignition attempt, regardless of an APS being stuck in the ‘proved air flow’ position. This, combined with a seized or slow fan, can result in a main burner baffling out/smothering.
• A fine coating of debris/dust on a tube or venturi can restrict the air pressure sufficiently to make the APS not operate as designed.
• Some APSs ‘push’ (exert positive pressure) on the diaphragm to make the microswitch. Some ‘pull’ (exert negative pressure) on the diaphragm to make the microswitch. The operation depends on the position of the return force (spring or gravity) when the fan is at rest.
• It may be possible to attach a digital manometer to APS tubes to read the pressure exerted by the fan (the expected pressure differential required to operate the APS can often be found on a label attached to the APS).

Frequently Asked Questions

Q) What voltage is at the APS?

A) The voltage can range from 230V AC to a very low DC voltage. Remember, an APS is is a switch, so whatever voltage is put into the switch you should get out of it, providing it operates correctly. Following the tests described above will prove if an APS is operating correctly. You don’t need to know the voltage.

Q) I have checked for voltage at the common terminal of the APS and there is no voltage. Does this mean the PCB is faulty?

A) The APS can operate in two ways: voltage from the PCB can be sent to the common terminal of the APS; or, as is usual in later appliances, the voltage will go from the PCB to the normally closed terminal. With the APS in its rest position this will pass voltage to the common terminal and the fan. When the fan runs, the APS operates, and the common terminal will now have voltage fed from the normally open terminal to keep the fan running.

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